Setup Secrets: Why Acoustic and Electric Guitars Differ

Every guitar player knows the importance of keeping their instrument in top shape, but when it comes to setting up an acoustic versus an electric guitar, the processes can be surprisingly different. From string tension to action height and even how you adjust the neck, the unique characteristics of each guitar type mean that the setup process needs to be tailored to the instrument. Whether you’re a seasoned player or someone just starting to explore guitar maintenance, understanding why acoustic and electric setups differ can help you get the most out of your instrument and even improve your playing experience. Let’s dive in!

Step 1: Tools and Workspace Preparation

Before you begin setting up either an acoustic or an electric guitar, it’s important to have the right tools and a suitable workspace. For electric guitar setups, you’ll need a few specialized tools like a tuner, string winder, screwdrivers, hex keys, a feeler gauge, and an action gauge. Acoustic guitars, on the other hand, may require slightly different tools, including a capo, ruler, nut files, and sometimes saddle shims for action adjustment.

Both setups benefit from a clean, flat surface to work on, such as a table or workbench. Lay a soft towel or cloth under the guitar to protect its finish, and have plenty of light so you can see what you’re doing. By gathering all the necessary tools ahead of time, you’ll streamline the setup process and avoid the frustration of misplacing something important halfway through the job.

Step 2: Restringing Differences

Restringing is where the setup process for acoustic and electric guitars starts to diverge. With electric guitars, string gauge (the thickness of the strings) plays a big role in the feel and sound of the instrument. Most electric guitar players use gauges ranging from .009-.046 (light) to .011-.052 (heavy). Lighter strings are easier to bend and play faster, while heavier strings provide a fuller tone, often favored by rhythm players or those who drop-tune their guitars.

For acoustic guitars, the gauge is typically heavier—ranging from .011-.053 (light) to .013-.056 (medium or heavy). Acoustic strings also use different materials, such as bronze or phosphor bronze, to produce rich, resonant tones. The higher tension of acoustic strings is essential to produce enough volume in a non-amplified setting. This difference in string type and tension is one of the main reasons why acoustic setups differ from electric ones: the higher tension of acoustic strings demands slightly different adjustments to the neck and action to keep everything playing smoothly.

Step 3: Truss Rod Adjustments

Both acoustic and electric guitars have truss rods, which control the curvature of the neck. Adjusting the truss rod affects the "relief" or the slight forward bow in the neck, which determines how high the strings sit above the frets.

For electric guitars, the ideal neck relief is often around .010 inches at the 7th fret, measured with a capo on the 1st fret and a feeler gauge at the 7th. Electric necks are typically thinner and more responsive, meaning adjustments to the truss rod show results quickly. This allows for more precise control of the neck's curve and, in turn, the action (or string height).

Acoustic guitars, with their thicker necks, usually require a bit more relief, typically around .010 to .012 inches. The heavier strings and higher tension necessitate this extra relief to prevent buzzing, especially when playing open chords. Adjustments to the truss rod on an acoustic are more subtle and may take longer to take full effect, so patience is key. The additional relief also helps the guitar maintain a fuller, more resonant tone, which is crucial for an acoustic instrument’s natural projection.

Step 4: Action Setup (Height of Strings)

The action—the height of the strings above the fretboard—is one of the most noticeable differences between acoustic and electric guitar setups. For electric guitars, players often prefer a lower action for fast, smooth playability. On most electrics, the action at the 12th fret ranges from about 1.5 mm to 2 mm for the high E string and around 2 mm to 2.5 mm for the low E string. Lower action makes it easier to press down on the strings, ideal for techniques like string bending and fast solos.

On acoustic guitars, the action is typically set higher. At the 12th fret, the action is usually around 2.5 mm to 3 mm for the high E string and 3 mm to 3.5 mm for the low E string. This higher action accommodates the heavier string gauge and prevents fret buzz, especially when playing with the force required to project sound naturally from the guitar body. Adjusting the action on an acoustic is trickier than on an electric because the bridge saddles on electrics allow for fine-tuning, whereas acoustics often require you to sand down or shim the saddle for major adjustments.

The reason for these differences comes down to how each guitar produces sound. Electric guitars rely on pickups and amplification, so buzzing from a low action can often be hidden or minimized by adjusting your amp settings. Acoustics, however, rely entirely on the natural resonance of the wood, meaning any fret buzz will be loud and clear—so higher action is necessary to prevent it.

Step 5: Intonation Differences

Intonation ensures that your guitar plays in tune across the entire fretboard, and it’s especially important when you change string gauges or adjust the action. On an electric guitar, intonation can be adjusted using the individual saddles on the bridge. If the fretted note at the 12th fret is sharp compared to the harmonic, the saddle needs to be moved back (away from the neck). If the note is flat, the saddle needs to be moved forward (toward the neck). This precise adjustment ensures that the guitar stays in tune regardless of where you’re playing on the neck.

Acoustic guitars, however, don’t have the luxury of adjustable saddles. The saddle is fixed, and compensation is built into its shape. If the intonation is significantly off, it might require a custom-shaped saddle or, in some cases, replacement of the entire saddle. This makes the intonation process on acoustics more limited and more dependent on the initial setup from the factory or luthier.

The difference in adjustability reflects the design priorities of each instrument: electric guitars are built for precision and versatility, while acoustics prioritize simplicity and natural tone.

Step 6: Pickup Height vs. Soundhole Balance

Another significant difference between acoustic and electric guitar setups lies in the pickups—or lack thereof, in the case of most acoustics. On electric guitars, adjusting the pickup height has a direct impact on the tone and volume. If the pickups are too close to the strings, the sound may become distorted or uneven due to the magnetic pull affecting string vibration. If they’re too far, the guitar might sound weak or lifeless. The typical recommendation is to keep bridge pickups around 2 mm from the strings and neck pickups at about 2.5–3 mm.

On a traditional acoustic guitar, there are no pickups to adjust (unless you’re using an acoustic-electric model). Instead, the sound depends entirely on the guitar’s body, soundhole, and string tension. If you’re using an acoustic-electric guitar with a piezo or other internal pickup system, these are typically built into the bridge and don’t require the same height adjustments as electric guitar pickups.

Step 7: Nut Adjustments

The nut, which holds the strings in place near the headstock, also requires different approaches depending on the guitar. On electric guitars, the nut slots are generally set low to allow for easy fretting and fast playing. The ideal height above the first fret is around .020 inches for the high E string and .030 inches for the low E string.

Acoustic guitars, by contrast, need slightly higher nut slots to accommodate the higher tension of the strings and prevent buzzing. The recommended clearance is about .022 inches for the high E string and .035 inches for the low E. Adjusting the nut can significantly affect tuning stability and playability, so it’s a critical part of both setups. However, the higher tension of acoustic strings means you’ll want to be especially careful when filing nut slots on an acoustic to avoid creating any buzzing or dead spots.

Step 8: Final Setup Check

Once you’ve gone through the process of adjusting either an electric or acoustic guitar, it’s time for a final check. On electric guitars, you’ll want to play through all the frets to check for buzzing or dead spots, ensure the pickups are balanced, and double-check intonation and action. For acoustic guitars, you’ll similarly want to check for buzzing, especially on open chords and barre chords played higher up the neck. Make sure the guitar rings out clearly with no dead notes and that the action feels comfortable without being too high.

Different Strokes for Different Folks

While setting up an acoustic and electric guitar may involve many of the same basic principles, the differences in string tension, action, and electronics create distinct processes for each. Electric guitars are all about precision and customization, allowing for easy fine-tuning of intonation, action, and tone. Acoustic guitars, on the other hand, rely on simplicity and resonance, requiring higher action and more attention to natural sound projection.

By understanding the differences in setup between these two types of guitars, you can ensure that each instrument is optimized for your playing style. Plus, with practice, setting up your guitar can become a rewarding part of your guitar-playing journey. So grab your tools and get started—it’s time to make your guitar play (and sound) its best!